Sunday, September 29, 2013

The Busy Sunday

By Micah


#2 (in the middle) SMASHED the world record


The woman in the middle won the women's race
                                                        
Today we went to see the Berlin marathon runners run.  We saw that the man who won broke the world record. It was really loud there and I wanted to go somewhere quiet. We went to Starbucks Coffee but the line was too long. We tried 2 other bakeries but we had tantrums and we had to go home we had lunch and went to the Preusen Park. Dad beat me 60-55 in basketball. I was so upset but I said "Good Game". I watched a soccer game for about 4-5 minutes and then we left. Then we went to the Back-Factory for a treat I got a piece of cheese pizza and Dafna got a small chocolate frosted doughnut (donut).




                                                        The End                                                                                            

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Settlers vs. Sojourners

One of the things that we've been thinking about is the balance between being sojourners in Berlin and settlers in Berlin.  How much do we see ourselves as tourists and how much are we Berliners (and not the jelly doughnut kind)?  The kids have dived headfirst into German "Kaffee und Kuchen" culture but are still saying things like "I hate people who speak German".  Loudly.  On the bus.  Mark is becoming more and more facile in German.  I haven't gotten lost on public transpo in 2 weeks!  Also, I learned to call it "public transpo".
Waiting for something sweet

We were lucky enough to have the Bavarian-dwelling Desais come for Rosh Hashana and the weekend following which gave us the opportunity not just to hang out, but also to be tourists in our city.  We went to the important places: the Ritter Sport "factory", the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag (from the outside), the Zoo and several playgrounds. 
Nilpferd herd

Amazing German engineering

Emily, Maya and I feed the goats.  Everyone else was too scared.
This tree is hundreds of years old.  The boy is 9.

It was a terrific weekend and now they are returning the favor by hosting Mark for Oktoberfest this weekend.  We'll all head down there during our Herbstfarien (Fall vacation) at the beginning of October.  There's already snow in the mountains, I hear.

The holidays are slowing down and I'm hoping to get back to my regular blogging.  Hoping...

Friday, September 13, 2013

Thoughts on an Einschulung

D (finally) started school this week.  See:
D goes to Late Birds.  So she wears a bird to school.  Kids who go home wear houses... 

 In Germany, the beginning of formal schooling (typically 1st grade, but since our school follows the American system, Kindergarten) is marked with an "Einschulung" (Schooling-In) ceremony.  There is really no translation.


 It is also traditional (and by "traditional" they mean "mandatory") to give your child a "schultute" after this ceremony.  Schultuten are traditionally filled with sweets to make learning sweeter (kind of like putting honey on the aleph-bet letters).  D's tute was filled with a KinderEgg and a few chocolates but mostly art supplies, a jump rope, barrettes, etc.  Poor girl has a tute-filler with an agenda.

So, in no particular order, my random observations on an Einschulung:

1.  The marching is more like shuffling
2.  Shirt chewing is a universal language
3.  "Einschulung" has nothing to do with "Entschuldigung" (excuse me), except that neither roll off the tongue
4.  Who invented this language?
5.  Really?  You're going to make me (all of us) listen to someone else's 2nd graders play violin?

But really, it was a lovely morning.  The students were welcomed to the school community by the 2nd graders and I think really got the idea that all of the parents, relatives (apparently Godparents play a role in this day) and friends there were there to support them in learning.  

And after 4 days they can sing in English and German:


Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Sorry

Sorry, everyone.  I've been lax on the blogging.  Rosh Hashana, Shabbat, terrific guests, a bad cold (why is it that my kids do gross things and put their fingers in their mouths and I get sick?), the situation at school getting worse and not better...  I'll be back before the end of the week.  I promise.

To tide you over, a picture of our very European Rosh Hashana:
Babushkas and all.  They had just come from Poland, after all.

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Neither the Fountainheads Nor the Maccabeats


Creator: Wiener Werkstatte; designers: Wilhelm Jonasch and Brüder Kohn
Date: circa 1910
Object origin: Austria
Medium: postcard, lithograph on paper
Repository: Yeshiva University Museum
  
  Unetaneh Tokef - B'Rosh HaShanah - Voice of an Angel -Shira and Hazzan Emanuel Perlman

We'll be off the grid for the next few days.  Enjoy!

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

The Sybelstrasse Blog FAQ-- A Guest Post

Hi all,
 
Sorry to be a bit late to the party in writing up my initial blog post.  Since I’m nominally the one who is responsible for dragging Die Familie Copelovitch halfway around the world, I thought I’d take some time and answer some of the pressing questions that you might have about our Berlin adventures.  Here goes…

OK, so what’s the deal here?  This is a year-long vacation “boondoggle” in Europe, right?
Well, no, not exactly. While there will certainly be elements of both European vacation and boondoggle, we are living in Berlin for my sabbatical year.[1]  I am on leave from my job as Associate Professor in the Department of Political Science and the La Follette School of Public Affairs at the University of Wisconsin – Madison, where I teach and study international political economy (i.e., the politics of international trade, money, and finance) and international organizations (boring further details on my professional life and research, for those interested, can be found here: https://mywebspace.wisc.edu/copelovitch/web/Site/HOME.html).  I am spending the academic year as a Visiting Scholar at the Hertie School of Governance (http://www.hertie-school.org/).  Hertie is a decade-old public policy school in Berlin, with an excellent group of scholars in political science, economics, sociology, law, and public management.  I have several professional colleagues and friends here, and it seemed like an ideal place to spend the year focusing on my new research projects.  I will also teach one seminar in the Master of Public Policy program on the politics of international money and finance.


What is this “sabbatical” of which you speak?  Don’t you lazy professors/parasitic public employees/effete intellectuals ever work?
I was all prepared to write up a detailed explanation and defense of the academic sabbatical, but then I saw that our good friend, Ankur Desai (who is with his family on their own UW sabbatical in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany) has already written an excellent description of the rationale for sabbatical, what it is and is not, etc., on the Desai family’s own sabbatical blog (http://5badgers.wordpress.com/).  Take it away, Professor Desai:

The root of “sabbatical” is the Biblical word Shabbat (Hebrew) or Sabbath (English) – the idea that the 7th day of creation, G-d rested and so should we (and eat salmon and challah) [MSC: Ankur, I’m pretty sure G-d wanted some meat in his cholent on Shabbat, but that’s another discussion…].  Later, somewhere in Exodus I think, comes the commandment that every seven years, all land must be left fallow (and food that does grow is to be left for the poor) and all debts forgiven.  The idea is renewal. The concept can be applied to work as well and is most well known in academia, where professors at many institutions are eligible for a paid sabbatical leave after every six full years of service. I haven’t done enough research to know how or when this started in higher education, but it’s a bedrock of how scholarship (creating and communicating knowledge) is renewed in most of higher ed.

Often, in the media, sabbatical, especially for professors at publicly funded universities, is lambasted as an expensive perk, an extremely gratuitous paid vacation, and of course, you might get some of that impression from reading about our adventures getting to Germany! But like I mentioned earlier, for academics, sabbatical is not a vacation (most professors, in fact, on 9-month contracts, like me, do not get any paid vacation). We are still employed, still working, still conducting scholarship. We are only released from our commitments towards teaching courses and serving on university committees. It does not release me from my obligations as a principal investigator on grants, as a thesis advisor to my graduate students, as a supervisor to my staff, as a scholar in my field presenting at conferences and writing/revising papers, to keep my field sites and lab experiments running, to help my department retain its top-tier national ranking, nor to serve my national and international commitments to journal editorships, steering committees and Boards, peer reviewing, and the like.

Some scholars stay close to home and work on catching up on writing. Others take the time to develop new courses, write a textbook, or lead a new campus or discipline initiative. And others use the leave as a good reason to visit other labs, learn about their methods, and forge new partnerships and collaborations. Many great discoveries in science have arisen from chance encounters during sabbatical leaves. The kind of science I do is inherently interdisciplinary and international in scope. Many of my closest colleagues are in Europe and it’s nice to be able to spend more focused time with them beyond the occasional hello and beer at a conference.

And yes, it is about rest. Scholarship can exhaust the mind. Sometimes a change of scenery or pace is critical to retaining creativity and a sustained level of competitiveness required to attain research grants, write groundbreaking papers, and be inspiring in the classroom.  Sabbatical is not an entitlement either. I had to write a proposal to the University, gain department and University approval, and ensure that classes I would normally teach would somehow get taught or made up in the curriculum in other ways.


OK…that sort of makes sense, even though I still think that you’re just drinking beer and eating (kosher) bratwurst all day long.  But, why are you in Berlin?
Good question.  Well, actually, that’s two questions: 1) Why did you choose to go away on sabbatical? 2) Why did you choose to go to Berlin, specifically?  I’ll try and briefly answer both.

When I first began thinking about taking a sabbatical, the obvious question was, “Where should we go?”  My initial instinct was to stay in Madison, largely to avoid the upheaval of moving four Copelovitches overseas and dealing with the time and cost of finding an apartment, schools for the kids, and so forth.  As Beth and I spoke more about it, though, we kept coming back to two points in favor of going away.  First, there were the professional reasons.[2]  I have seen several of my colleagues in the last seven years take their sabbaticals at home, only to have those sabbaticals turn into no sabbatical at all.  Basically, the lesson of their experience seemed to be that “if you’re in the office, it’s fair game to ask you about X, request you to attend meeting Y, knock on your office door and set up a meeting about project Z,” etc. etc.  The alternative – avoiding the office completely and working elsewhere – also seemed less-than-promising.  I’m not sure what it is, but since the kids came along, I find it very hard to be productive at home; I think the feng shui of the house is wrong, or something.  So, I spend most of my work time at the office or in cafes.  And much as I like singlehandedly keeping Barriques and the Froth House (my local cafes of choice) in business, I wanted to get away, both physically and intellectually.  As Ankur wrote, the change of scenery and pace is perhaps the most important and attractive element of a sabbatical.  After nearly seven years in Madison (and the last three years in full-on “head down, get tenure” mode), it was high time to step back and away.  So, while I am blessed to have amazing colleagues at a world-class university (and, more generally, we are blessed to have wonderful friends and neighbors in a wonderful city), I wanted to get away from it all and recharge the batteries.

Professionally, the timing is ideal for me. First, the topics that I study and research – financial crises, exchange rates, global financial governance, financial regulation, etc. – are nowhere more important and in the news these days than in Europe, and the opportunity to be here as things happen is extremely exciting for me.  Second, I am fortunate to have been granted tenure this past spring. This means a number of things, most good (long-term employment, a raise) and a few less so (more departmental and university committee work), but most immediately it means that I can step back from the “publish or perish” grind of faculty life (at least briefly) and read (as in read books…not articles, not introductory chapters of books, not book reviews…actual books in their entirety), think, and figure out what the next chapter of my academic career looks like.  Most importantly, I can take the time to plan and launch some exciting and longer-term research projects.  Not just “the next paper on X” sort of projects, but actual new research that will continue for several years.  The main one of these is a new book project on financial crises that I am working on with David Singer, my close friend and collaborator who is now a professor at MIT.  I’m also working on organizing a group of colleagues (on both sides of the Atlantic) to write a series of articles on the politics of the Euro crisis, which will hopefully end up as a special issue of one of the journals in my field.  Finally, I’m working on a new paper (the first of several, we hope) with one of my graduate students and two other colleagues on decision-making within the international financial institutions and the limits of US power within those organizations (e.g., the IMF, World Bank, etc.).  And of course, that stack of “next paper” projects is still not completely cleared, tenure and new projects notwithstanding.

So, there is a lot of work for me to do, and sabbatical gives me the time to actually do it, rather than simply thinking about it (or not thinking about it) while teaching a full course load, attending committee meetings, advising graduate students, etc. etc.  There is something very exciting about this opportunity.  Starting anew now feels a bit like graduate school, when I launched into my dissertation project in earnest, even though I was not entirely sure what my research would uncover or what the final product would eventually look like.  That uncertainty can be unsettling, but it’s also full of possibility and excitement.  I’m reminded of the closing scene of my favorite movie, The Shawshank Redemption, where Red is on the bus to Texas, wondering if he’ll make it across the Mexican border to see his friend, Andy Dufresne, once again: “I think it is the excitement only a free man can feel, a free man at the start of a long journey whose conclusion is uncertain.” Indeed, for the first time in a long while, I’m truly excited about my research and looking forward to diving into the work.

Well, that’s the professional side of things.  But there were also a series of personal and family reasons for wanting to go away for sabbatical.  First, for a variety of reasons, this seemed like the “right” year to go away, and the more Beth and I discussed things, the more we thought this was a “now or never” situation…or at least “never” defined as “until the kids go away to college.”  Dafna just finished preschool in August (at the wonderful and amazing Preschool of the Arts: http://preschoolofthearts.com/), so she was already going to be starting anew in kindergarten at Franklin School.  Micah would have been in the middle year of Randall School (Grades 3-5) this year, which meant that he could go away for 4th grade but come back to a comfortable and friendly environment, without having to adjust to a new school for the second or third year in a row.[3]  In addition, Beth was coming to the end of her contract as Education Director at our synagogue in Madison, and she had the opportunity to ask for a year’s leave before returning to work.  This was a nice set of circumstances, and we worried that – if we passed on the opportunity to travel now – the four of us would not be in a good position to all go away together in the future.  Looking ahead, the kids’ schedules will undoubtedly be busier as they get older; their parents will undoubtedly be more embarrassing to spend time with in public; and the ebb and flow of our two careers might not coincide as well as it did this year.  Putting all of that together, Beth and I worried that waiting might mean that we would never take a family sabbatical at all, which would be a shame.  We know many colleagues and friends who have taken their children on sabbatical (or who went with their parents years ago) and loved the experience, and we did not want to miss the opportunity to have that same experience together as a family.

But why go to Berlin?  Above all, it made a lot of sense for me professionally.  Given Germany’s central role in shaping the European Union’s response to the Euro crisis, Berlin’s geographic proximity to lots of other places that I would like to visit for research reasons this year (Basel, Frankfurt, London, Brussels), and the aforementioned advantages of being at the Hertie School, Berlin seemed like an ideal place to spend an academic year.  Germany also turns out to be one of the interesting case studies that I will be exploring in the new book project, so being here and taking advantage of Hertie’s proximity and ties to the Berlin policymaking community was ideal. My hope and goal is to meet with a variety of scholars, policymakers, and officials here in Berlin (and Frankfurt) working on issues related to the Euro crisis, financial regulation, and other topics.  Finally, I also have a number of friends and colleagues at universities elsewhere Europe, and spending the year in Berlin has the added benefit of enabling me to take advantage of their generous invitations to visit and present my research without incurring the time and cost of a transatlantic flight.  Consequently, at several points this year, I’ll be presenting my work-in-progress at various European universities (starting with the London School of Economics in October and Trinity College, Dublin, in November).  This is one of the real pleasures and perks of academic life, since one gets to travel to nice locations, meet very interesting scholars, and get feedback on one’s work from fresh sets of eyes with different perspectives than the “home crowd.”  Now that I’m at a point in my career where I have colleagues across the US and Europe, it’s also nice to catch up with old friends and raise a glass or two together.  Plus, the possibility of turning this work travel into a few family weekends in new locations isn’t too bad, either (ok, so there is some “boondoggle” factor here after all…!). 

At the same time, Berlin seemed like a good place for us to spend a year as a family.  I have been here twice before, and I am a big fan of the city.  While I’m no expert, I had seen a fair bit of the city during my previous visits, and I knew my way around enough to get a feel for things and the impression that we would be happy living here for the year.  As those of you who have been here know, Berlin really is a fascinating and incredibly vibrant city: history, culture, food, neighborhoods, architecture, parks and green space, affordability, great public transportation, bike-friendly, etc. It’s really all here, and if you’re bored in Berlin, you’re really not trying hard enough.  There’s also a vibrant Jewish community (including an active Conservative (Masorti) synagogue that meets at the restored Neue Synagogue, three kosher meat stores in close proximity, and the lovely kosher apartment we’re renting in Charlottenburg), which was important for us.[4]  Finally, while I’m trying hard to learn German (and the kids will pick it up at school, while Beth picks it up at the farmers’ markets), it’s not at all hard to function here with English, which we thought would be important for at least the first couple of months.

So…here we are, three weeks in and feeling a bit more settled into our year as Berliners.  I’ll cede the blogging floor back to Beth, who is infinitely more entertaining and insightful in her posts.  However, I thought some of you might find this background useful as you follow our adventures this year.  In the meantime, thanks for following along and keep reading.  We miss you all and look forward to catching up again once we’re back Stateside and in Madison.  Until then, it’s back to the beer and brat….er….research!

Tschüß!

Mark


[1] Boondoggle, n.: A project that is considered a useless waste of time and money, yet is often continued due to extraneous policy motivations.  On the origins of “boondoggle,” see here: http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive/pdf?res=F30A15FD3458177A93C6A9178FD85F418385F9
[2] Beth has her own professional reasons and goals for sabbatical.  Since they’re hers and this is primarily her blog, I’ll let her chime in with those if she wants.
[3] Per Beth’s recent post re: Micah’s somewhat rocky entrance into the JFK School, we’ll reserve judgment on the merits of this decision until later in the year!
[4] This was a pleasant surprise for me on my initial visit to Berlin. I will probably write about this (and more generally, about what I have come to refer to as the “Germany…your grandmother is spinning in her grave” issue, based on the reactions of my father and other family members of a certain age to the news of our travels) in a future post.

A Long Weekend

Our children were the only ones (in all of Germany?) to have off for Labor Day yesterday.  A planned trip to the zoo got rained out, a rain plan of the aquarium got nixed in favor of a "lazy day at home" and promises of not whining, napping or asking for screens all day championed by the 2 of them.  It started off well-- block building, game playing (or at least started), drawing... and ended up like this:

Our weekend began typically-- ice cream at the cafe down the street.  Brilliant, huh?  Then I don't have to bake a Shabbat dessert!  Dinner and the start of a Monopoly game in German.  You thought Monopoly was a long game?  Wait 'til you have to translate every Community Chest and Chance card (travel version=small letters, no pictures).  It took 3 days to finish the game.  Mark and D won.  Of course.

Shul on Shabbat (we met more nice people, including several Rabbinical school students, one of whom was heading to the "Goldene Medina" (Rockville) for a high holiday pulpit), a nice lunch, a late nap and more Monopoly. 

On Sunday we headed to our neighborhood Schloss (Schloss Charlottenburg) for a look around.  We stuck to the gardens (not wanting to pay for the art-, antiques-heavy tour inside, hoping not to embody the ancient saying "If it ain't Baroque don't fix it!"), which were Versailles-like without the pain in the ass of getting to Versailles.  D was very happy, putting to use her PSA-gained knowledge of flowers, etc.  Micah took some convincing, but enjoyed the outing at the end.
Just a small summer palace

She's realizing that the flora here is similar to that of Wisconsin and could even identify many of the flowers in the formal gardens.  Thanks, Stacy and Tim for the meadow exploration!


Swans are pretty, but they nip.  Important life lesson.


  
Not enough statues?  Make your own!

A photo essay of Monday:
Mark acting out "Caps for Sale"



Dafna and Micah just plain acting out
Yes, they stayed in their pajamas all day

Facetiming with Claire.  Unsupervised. D checking in on Cow and Beethoven.


At least somebody got something done.  Challah rolls.  Not gluten-free.


Back to school today.  First commute in cold rain seemed to go well (I didn't do it! :)).  We have our parent/teacher/child meeting with D's teacher Frau Fischer this afternoon.  Micah's teacher is pulling back from the edge a little.  Our meeting frantically scheduled for this afternoon is postponed until next week; maybe because she heard he'll only be in school 2 days this week.  He starts basketball club this afternoon.  We'll see how that goes.

Desais tomorrow!  (More) Cooking today!